Niman Ranch

Q&A with Steve Esau of Niman Ranch

What’s your definition of sustainable food? Definition of Sustainable: Ask 10 different people and you will get 11 different answers as the first person will want to change their answer by the time they hear the 10th person’s definition. But to tell you the truth, that’s okay because as we learn more and become more informed, sustainability and the level of commitment continues to change on a personal level. I feel when you take the definition of sustainable to food and food production, one needs to realize actions reach beyond the fence line of a given farm or property owner. For the purpose of this interview, to me sustainable food is defined as a food that is grown or raised in a respectful system where the earth is minimally impacted preserving it for future generations.

What’s the biggest challenge facing sustainable food right now?I think there are many challenges that face sustainable food production right now. But one of the biggest is the resistance of the status quo (factory farming and large commodity producers) to evaluate the true cost of cheap agricultural production.

What does Niman Ranch do to tackle the problem? The system or systems need to be sustainable. Not only do the actual production methods need to be sustainable but so does the ability to get product to market. Niman Ranch addresses many of these problems by bringing together the network of 650+ individual family farmers and ranchers under one brand who otherwise might struggle with issues such as harvesting, processing, inspection, third party audits, marketing, sales, logistics, distribution, and balance of the carcass. The farm as a business entity also needs to be sustainable to operate from year to year. Niman Ranch through the brand is able to pay the farmer or rancher a premium for their livestock to cover the additional costs of production under the Niman Ranch protocols or guidelines. The premiums are increased as the quality of the product increases. This is important, because the ultimate decision on repeat purchases and brand survival is consumer satisfaction. Everything can be right on paper but if the product or the brand doesn’t perform the whole system will collapse.

How do we move sustainable food into the mainstream? Over the last three years there have been huge strides in moving sustainable food programs into the mainstream. Obviously there are different levels or measurements of sustainable but the key is that we keep from “green washing” the standards. Chefs such as Kevin Gillespie who have influence are critical in not only getting the consumer to think and ask questions but also his colleagues. It is also critical that the consumer continues to vote with their dollar and actions.

Can you discuss your animal husbandry standards? Probably the easiest way to describe Niman Ranch’s husbandry standards in a nutshell is to say that we implement a low stress system in the raising and harvesting of the animals in the Niman Ranch program. We work closely with Dr. Temple Grandin and other leading minds in the animal welfare arena to continually evaluate our system and protocols to make sure they are of the highest standards.

How much more expensive is it to follow these standards? I am not sure I can put an accurate pencil to measuring the exact cost to follow the Niman Ranch standards or protocols as there are many, many factors to take into consideration. The actual production methods followed by Niman Ranch farmers and ranchers are more costly due to a decrease in efficiencies not only in the cost of gain but the number of pounds of product going to market per acre due to the low density farming practices. But there are also expenses that are hard to measure that occur outside the actual cost of producing a pound of beef, pork, or lamb in a “commodity” system. Take for instance; Iowa has the most polluted ground water of any state. That statistic can be directly tied to the number of CAFO or Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations / Factory Farms. This is just one example of an unmeasured cost that isn’t put back against the price of “commodity” raised pork. It goes back to the question “What is the true cost of cheap meat?”

How did Niman Ranch become the largest U.S. network of family farmers and ranchers?

“You load sixteen tons, what do you get?
Another day older and deeper in debt.
Saint Peter don’t you call me, ’cause I can’t go;
I owe my soul to the company store.”

When I think of the large corporate “factory” farms that song comes to mind. For the most part, Niman Ranch didn’t do anything revolutionary. We aren’t out there waving flags and converting factory farms to our way of farming, ranching and raising livestock. What Niman Ranch has offered is a means for the family farmer who is committed to what Niman Ranch stands for – a market and a sustainable price for their product. In the truest sense Niman Ranch is a marketing co-op that manages and connects over 650 individual U.S. family farmers and ranchers with the customer. Niman Ranch from the consumer side has been able to build the trust of the consumer in our products with stringent protocols governing both animal welfare and production methods through a third party independent audit system that is in place to guarantee claims are met.

What are the benefits of choosing your products? There are many issues that drive a consumer to purchase. Niman Ranch reaches across the lines and addresses many of those issues. Niman Ranch offers the consumer products that are “never ever” or “clean” – never given any antibiotics or added hormones. Niman Ranch offers the consumer sustainable products that are raised with respect – respect to the earth, respect to the U.S. farmers and ranchers who labor to bring products to market, and respect to the animal through all phases of its life.

Is there anything else you want to add? Knowledge and commitment is the key to the success of sustainability in our food system. The level for each can be different from person to person and altered by our means. Make a difference in what you do and do it with passion.

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